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Sign Tips

These are the top ten vinyl-graphics questions:

10. Is there a fast way to install on corrugated and riveted surfaces?
9. What is the best clear coat for vinyl?
8. What is the best paint to use on vinyl?
7. Should I use wet or dry application?
6. How do I price my work?
5. Who makes the best vinyl?
4. Which vinyl do I use?
3. How do you avoid bubbles and wrinkles?
2. What is the best way to prep a surface?
1. What is the best way to remove vinyl?

Question #10: Is there a fast way to install on corrugated and riveted surfaces?

No! You just have to take your time, be thorough, and be patient. However, here are some things that will help you speed up this slow job:

Orient stiff squeegees parallel to the corrugations, and flexible squeegees perpendicular to the line. Fingers or brushes travel with the line, and stiff squeegees travel across the line.
Use a rivet brush and a source of heat to plant vinyl around rivets. Aerate by puncturing at the bottom of the rivet for the air pockets that form.
When applying overlapping panels to tractor trailers, work from back to front, and bottom to top.
Hire more help!

Question #9: What is the best clear coat for vinyl?

The one it comes with already built in. However, if you have special circumstances that require extra protection I would recommend clear automotive urethane, Vinyl Tech Clear (see Answer #8), Butch Anton's"Frog Juice", ClearStar Coating Corp (1-888-CLEARSTAR), or a 1 mil clear fluoropolymer film available from SignGold Corporation which will also render the vinyl graffiti resistant. Clearcast or calendered vinyl is available as well as self adhesive polyester which will also add protective qualities, but these products vary interms of outdoor durability and should be chosen according to expectation of performance. Gerber Scientific Products has a clear protective foil overprint available for Gerber Edge users.

Question #8: What is the best paint to use on vinyl?

A product that truly integrates with the vinyl. To determine this you can apply different paint products to vinyl, allow paint time to cure, carefully slice an x-gash through the paint, not the vinyl, with a sharp blade, apply 3M masking tape across the x-gash, burnish the tape, and then rip it straight away from the material. It the paint comes off where it was sliced, it does not integrate with the vinyl.

Vinyl inks are specially formulated to integrate with vinyl, but they're tough to work with and have potent odors. Automotive paints like Imron will work but they have special application requirements also. One product that I have found works very well with vinyl is called Vinyl Tech. I have an instructional video that will instruct you on the product's proper use (Click here for more info). It is an aerosol product that integrates with vinyl and will not rob vinyl of its good qualities when properly used. A clear coat aerosol is also available and advisable any time you color coat vinyl.

Question #7: Should I use wet or dry application?

YES! It all depends on the application situation and your level of skill. I recommend dry application techniques as often as possible because it is faster. But under certain circumstances, wet application may be advisable, such as: clear or translucent film application, larger graphics on glass especially reverse cut interior applications, critical alignments, hot surfaces, windy conditions, and when being done by novice installers.

Follow all directions given by the wet application solution manufacturer. Don't dilute solutions unless specifically directed to do so. Do not use windex-type products especially ammoniated versions. If you try to get by with soap and water, you will likely sacrifice a lot of your time.

Question #6: How do I price my work?

I recommend the SignWriter's Price Guide (available from STPublications) as a standard pricing guide for our industry. Also, I would recommend Mark Robert's Price Index Manual available at www.signprice.com.The important point is to have a written pricing structure as opposed to indefinite guesstimates. Prospects respond better to the authority of the written word.

But this is just a start. I believe that much sign work is underdone because it is underpriced. We can do a better job for our clients when we are better paid. So we can use the written pricing guide as a way to price the "average or good job" but we should at least offer our clients a better and best job by displaying samples of different levels of quality work. It should all be quality, but some jobs benefit from displaying more detail which takes the job to a higher price level. Display options and pass the decision to purchase to the client.

Avoid discounting just to get work. Discount for volume only and never more than 15% off the national averages shown in your book.

Take the lead on being the highest priced sign maker in your area and encourage your competition to follow your lead.

Question #5: Who makes the best vinyl?

The company that makes the best vinyl is the one that stands behind their product with integrity, that is willing to make good on their promises, will work to solve problems for their clients, has displayed longevity in the field, and will not recommend an expedient action or cheap product at the expense of the installer. Knowing this I can decide who makes the best vinyl and you can, too!

Question #4: Which vinyl do I use?

The best one for the job. Vinyl selection depends on several factors. How long is it expected to last? Multiply your client's estimate by 4! Under what circumstances will the vinyl be living? Inside? Outside? Regularly maintained and kept clean? No maintenance? Sun and U.V. exposure? Did you know that only high-performance 2-mil cast vinyl has a high sun-block number built in and calendered vinyl is more prone to 'vinylnoma'? How about exposure to chemicals and fuels? Is there a need for great flexibility and wind resistance as on a banner? Will the vinyl need to expand and contract with the substrate? Is special performance needed? Reflectivity? Translucency? Optical clarity? Isn't it nice to know we have materials that will work for all these varieties of applications?

Match your vinyl to the special requirements if any and factor in the need for high-performance. Only come down to an intermediate grade calendered film when no special or high performance need exists. Choosing a vinyl based on price only is often a false economy.

Question #3: How do you avoid bubbles and wrinkles?

The answer to this starts in your shop and continues to the application and sometimes even beyond.

Keep vinyl rolled, clean, and dry.
Do not apply mask to cut/weeded vinyl on the same table you use for cutting graphics. Use a smooth surface only for masking.
Apply mask with a squeegee with a smooth, clean edge. Do not force or distort the mask.
Separate the vinyl from the release liner prior to application by turning face down and rolling the liner off the back rather than by trying to lift the vinyl with the mask.
Prep surface properly (see Answer #2).
Apply graphics with a perfect edge squeegee. "Gold" nylon squeegees will not degrade at the edge the way cheaper squeegees do. Friction sleeves will protect the edges of squeegees but only fresh squeegees should be used.
Learn to relax with the vinyl and not force it. Compound curves are best worked dry and with your fingers, the super-sensitive, infinitely adjustable squeegees.
Squeegee center first and then use short-overlapping strokes to the edges. Allow the squeegee to place the vinyl in contact with the surface. Do not "pat" the vinyl all over with your fingers to hold it until you squeegee. Use the mask or strips of tape to hold in place until you place the vinyl with your squeegee.
Use professional application solution for wet applications and be sure to wet the mask after you have squeegeed the vinyl in place. Let the solution break the mask's grip on the vinyl prior to removing the mask. Always pull mask back over itself. Practicing proper technique for dry application will result in faster application times, but wet application can be used as a bail out if application conditions are beyond your control or skill as an installer.
Re-squeegee the unmasked vinyl with a protected (towel, friction sleeve, or application solution spray) squeegee. Again, center first and short overlapping strokes to the edges. Thumb burnish edges.

NOTE: Static-induced bubbles will disappear within a few days. Bubbles that appear days or weeks later after the application are symptomatic of outgassing, a condition within the substrate caused by moisture or solvents coming out. Uncured paint jobs on vehicles, especially composite materials, and polycarbonate and certain acrylic sign face materials are notorious for this. Paint has to be totally cured and plastic faces have to be pre-sealed on both sides to avoid these problems entirely.
If, despite careful attention to the foregoing, you still have bubbles and/or wrinkles, simply puncture the bubbles and press the air or application solution out the hole. Wrinkles should be pressed firmly with the back of a finger nail from the center out to the edge. Try to spread it out and redistribute the vinyl. Otherwise you may have to put a clean slice in the middle and overlap the edges or butt the edges with a careful cut.

Question #2: What is the best way to prep a surface?

With solvents that effectively remove all contamination from the surface. Essentially two kinds of solvent will remove 99.9% of contaminants and both should be used to guarantee results. Petrochemical based solvent such as automotive tar, wax, and grease remover will remove waxes, polymer finishes, greases, tars, silicones, and most pollution. Water will take care of the organic stains such as tree sap, bird droppings, bug splatters, and common dirt. If stains are heavily acidic, add baking soda. If alkaline, add vinegar.

Big problems can occur if you try to prep with something that is not truly effective at removing all the contaminants that may be present. That is why I continually hear of application failures when the installer has tried to get by with rubbing alcohol, Windex-style glass cleaners, 409,etc. While these products will work on some contaminants they are not as totally effective as automotive wax remover and water.

Most "clean" banners and plastic substrates in the shop can be prepped with denatured alcohol.

Question #1: What is the best way to remove vinyl?

Safely, quickly, and inexpensively. HOW? My preferred method is with heat, adhesive removing chemicals, and a little tool called a Li'l Chiseler, a.k.a. "Larry Mitchell's 2-inch thumbnail". The heat can be supplied by the sun, a gas torch (extra care needed), or a heat gun (my preference). The chemical can be dilimonene based (citrus smelling and safer on PVC substrates) or a mixture of 2 parts M.E.K. (methyl ethylketone) and 1 part xylene or xylol(Strong, toxic chemicals!). Or you can get my GROGtm formulation for safely, quickly, and easily lifting paint, vinyl, and adhesive including stubborn reflective adhesive(Click here for more info on GROGtm.). ALWAYS FOLLOW COMMON SENSE PRECAUTIONS WHEN WORKING WITH CHEMICALS! Gloves and adequate ventilation are minimum precautions with any solvent. The Li'l Chiseler is a safe scraper for removing both the vinyl and the adhesive (Click here for more info on my 2" thumbnail).

Pull heated vinyl at a low angle away, not back over itself. Depending on the vinyl, its age, and the substrate most of the adhesive should shear off with the vinyl. The rest should remove quickly with the use of chemical and Li'l Chiseler.

What do you think?

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